Chronos

Designing Women

By Roberta Naas

Oh, those wonderful women who interpret the trends of gems and jewels in all their glory! While Chronos has been offering readers a glimpse inside the worlds of some of the finest designers – we could be accused of favoring men. Not so. Women have always been trendsetters. From Cleopatra who loved gold and turquoise to Coco Chanel who defined style, women understand and reinterpret fashion perhaps better than anyone else. The women who grace these pages are but a few of the finest jewelry designers of our time.

Ella Gafter

Classic elegance takes on all-new meaning when it comes to jewelry desinged by Ella Gafter. Utilizing only the finest gems – perfectly cut, lusciously rich in color and exquisitely set – Ella Gafter brings haute joaillerie to new heights. Every masterpiece she turns out is of regal stature – emulating the most magnificent gems worn by royalty for centuries. Indeed, Ella Gafter designs with a passion and influence that is unparalleled.

It was nealy 25 years ago that Ella Gafter began her jewelry career – setting up shop in the heart of traditional Italian jewelry-making country. Headquartered in Naples, Italy, Ellagem has regularly turned out masterpieces for today based on traditions of yesterday.

Gafter's specialty is in her en tremblant settings – wherein gemstones are placed in such a way that they sway or tremble with the wearer's every move. A difficult and time-consuming feat to accomplish, Gafter and her master artisans have superbly translated the technique into shimmering works of art to wear. Among some of her en tremblant masterpieces is an incredible diamond peacock with sapphires set en tremblant as tail spots.

Inspired by nature's beauty, Gafter's designs are often floral masterpieces, majestic birds, or brilliant butterflies – adorned with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds. Each of Gafter's designs bears a unique look, one that is immediately identifiable as hers because of its exceptional craftsmanship, regal sophistication and exciting freshness. Gafter is also known for her exceptional pearl designs. In fact, she recently completed a spectacular pearl and diamond collection for a renowned jewelry boutique in New York City.

Gafter spends her time traveling between the workshops in Italy and the company's headquarters in New York. Additionaly, she and her daughter Talila – who pretty much runs the business affairs – regularly scour the Far East for the finest South Sea and Tahitian pearls and travel the globe to secure the most breathtaking gemstones. Gafter buys her gems based on the fire and liveliness of a stone or the luster of a pearl, as it is her belief that jewelry is more than simply an adornment, but rather a magnificent heirloom.