March of Pins: Ella Gafter creates gorgeous pins with pearls, colored stones, onyx and mother-of-pearl to create 'a procession of animals walking in the direction' of the flower basket brooches for which she is well-known... 'Such a composition typically elicits delight from people,' she says.
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Ella Gafter
Born in Poland during World War II, Ela Gafter [pictured with daughter and partner Talila and model] left dark times behind her to voyage through life seeking – and bringing – beauty and brightness wherever she goes. Her jewelry represents the highest quality of haute joaillerie, and Ella is uncompromising in her commitment to using perfect, exquisite materials to create the very finest and most unique creations. She trained in Italy, as did her team of master jewelry crafstmen, and echoes of that most artistic of countries resonate through her stunning workmanship.
My first serious memory of fine jewelry is a portrait of Caterina de' Medici in the Uffizi galleries of Florence. She's depicted wearing strands and strands of large natural pearls and two separate and huge pearl drop earrings on her left ear.
I used to be a designer of fabrics and I absolutely adored it. I was self-employed and often hand painted silks for evening gowns.
When you have a driving passion it is easy to surrender to it. In fact, you cannot resist it!
We all know that the tendency in our trade is towards commercial mass production, and all of us who resist that trend have to struggle for growth and independence. Yes, the fact that I make one-of-a-kind complicated pieces affords me a special niche in the market, but still, sometimes it seems that it would be less complicated if I had given in to some offers to design for an important traditional house.
What has most influenced me in my career has been the privilege of living many years in Italy, where a total vision of aesthetic balance surrounds you on a daily basis.
I have always been accustomed to thinking of fine jewelry as one more way of making ones's self and surroundings more beautiful, more precious, more brilliant.
When I design jewelry I let myself be taken over by the raw material. I am always, and without exceptions, inspired by the size, color, and shape of what I build around.
I work to the musicof pearls. Have you ever held a bunch of South Sea pearls (they have to be of good, thich, skin quality) and shaken and rolled them – so to speak – in your hand? It is like the music of the spheres that the ancient philosophers claimed they could hear!
The residence that really interests me now is a compound I am developing in Umbria, Italy. It is a series of old farmhouses with many acres of olive trees, and I hope to be adding an olive oil business to my other activities in the near future.
I like to think that people buy a piece of fine jewelry because they consider it as a part of living well and as an item that always puts the finishing touch on a person that is well-put-together. But, of course, one also buys jewelry to express one's adoration of a lady, to remeber an imnportant event... really, the gift of a fine piece of jewelry is a mark of distinction for the person receiving it.
It is vital both for one's own growth and for the peole who surround you to recognize the individual talents of every human being.
I always check out people's shoes before any other part of their get up. Unkempt shoes are not a good sign!
