ELLA GAFTER OF NEW YORK
Ella Gafter is recognized as one of the world's leading pearl jewelers. One of her latest creations, a very important South Sea pearl anddiamond brooch, is traveling around the world with the "pearls" exhibition of the American Museum of Natural History which opened in New YOrk a few years ago. In fact, the brooch is one of a mere handful of such contmeporary works, and unique in its importance.
What distinguishes Ella's work with pearls is her respect for the raw material.
Design and construction grow organically around a specific pearl or pearls selected for their lustre and beauty of skin. These characteristics she considers the charm, what "speaks", what engages one. Ellagem's workshops are located in Naples, Italy, where there are several groups of artisans of ancient lineage. These maestros have chosen to carry forward the tradition of alta gioielleria which was born when the Bourbon kings came to Naples centuries ago, bringing along their entire court.
Many craftsmen have indeed moved on to northern Italian cities where prestigious jewelry factories are organized according to marketing-oriented corporate standards.
Ella's clientele in Rome, Italy, where she resides part of the year, is composed of members of the aristocracy who traditionally punctuate each and every happy occasion with the purchase of a piece of fine jewelry. Sometimes they choose to reset family heirlooms, such as large stones or natural pearls.
Her large salons on Fifth Avenue in New York overlook the city's skyline from the 31st floor. These rooms are filled with fine art, Persian rugs, and are a small European oasis in bustling Manhattan.
Clientele consists both of Wall Street men and women who have no time to spare, and of people of a more leisurely lifestyle. All are looking for one-of-a-kind, handmade jewelry, the likes of which are very hard to find today, since even the finest houses nowadays engage in mass production. It is typical for clients to spend a few good hours of viewing, conversation, and even sampling Ella's gourmet cooking. No sandwiches allowed, though!
Ella's Zodiac Collection is the fruit of two full years of work. The idea of interpreting zodiac symbols in metal is not new, but in rings it has typically been carried out in a rather simplified fashion. But she has chosen to bring the signs to life in a completely three-dimensional fashion, large and imposing, as feats of sculpture, engineering, and aesthetic refinement.
The pearl is my favorite gemstone because it is voluminous, and its look is soft, feminine and warm. The round shape makes for a wonderful "center" around which to build any creation, especially pins, button earrings, and rings. The drop shape, on the other hand, lends itself so well to finish any design.
When I create a piece of jewelry I am first of all inspired by what will constitute the organic center of the piece. It may be a pearl or a large stone. The shape and color of that center will then dictate the 3-dimensional construction around it. The value and rarity of that center will of course dictate how important and costly a piece is to be born around it.
My multicultural background has taught me both the value of eclecticism, which I completely subscribe to in more decorative fashion pieces (the use of non-precious materials etc.) and of classicism. There are no absolutes in aesthetic questions, and it just so happens that I favor a more classic approach in my work, but that's just my take on this issue.
I call a piece of fine jewelry classic when I detect the high quality of the materials used, and the intelligence and "sweat" that went into both envisioning it and executing it. However, the sustained effort must translate into easy loveliness that is a pleasure to behold!
My creations are architectonic in character and style. I find that more flattering to the female physiognomy.
The jewelry I create is never part of a "line" of any kind, the production reflects the different raw materials I work with at a certain moment...
The most important characteristic of a piece of fine jewelry is that it should be not only beautiful to the eye, but wearable to the best effect, that is, to a flattering effect, for this is after all its fundamental purpose! That means that all the elements have to
come together properly: The raw material has to be of quality, it has to be well interpreted, and featured in the best possible way within the design. The piece has to be technically executed to suit its purpose! (Earrings should not collapse backwards, as they often do, necklaces should not turn, pins should stay upright, etc...)
Finally, the specific piece has to land in the hands of the right woman who will know when and how to wear it.
My most important achievement is being able to express my talent freely. l ascribe that to ambition, but also to my good fortune, and to the support of many good people along my career.
Talila Gaftter
Talila (Ella's daughter and President of Ellagem) was educated in several different cultures and decided to join her mother's business after graduating from Harvard University in 1981, at a very exciting time, as Ellagem was first opening NY offices.
Talila organizes every aspect of the business, and makes what she considers Ella's artistic achievements known to the public: Ella's work is featured in publications worldwide.
"Responsibilities are therefore shared in a way that guarantees that no one steps on each other's turf" says Talila
