Jewelry News Asia

Coco Chanel was said to have once declared that "A woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls." One woman who has obviously taken this declaration to heart is New York-basedd designer Ella Gafter, who is recognized as one of the world's leading pearl jewellers.

"The pearl is my favorite gemstone. It is voluminous, and its look is soft, feminine and warm," says Ms. Gafter, the woman. Then the designer in her speaks: "The round shape makes for a wonderful 'centre' around which to build any creation, especially pins, button earrings and rings. The drop shape, on the other hand, lends itself so well to finishing any design." Ms. Gafter's jewellery creations are no strangers to the pages of leading fashion magazines. As such, they have attracted a strong following among the "Wall Street types" who frequent her Ellagem salon on New York's Fifth Avenue. "Our clientele in the US consists of both Wall Street men and women, who have no time to spare, and people of a more leisurely lifestyle."

Ms. Gafter, who resides in Rome, Italy for half the year, also counts among her clientele members of the Italian aristocracy. "Whether they are from the US or Italy, clients are all looking for one-of-a-kind, handmade jewellery, something which is hard to find today, since even the finest houses are now engaging in mass production," she says.

Indeed, in a world of uniformity, it is refreshing to find someone committed to producing unique pieces whose beauty reflects the "intelligence and sweat" that went into them. This is made possible by Ellagem's team of artisans in the company's workshop in Naples, who have been trained in their craft since childhood. "These maestros have chosen to carry forward the tradition of 'alta gioielleria,' which was born when the Bourbon kings came to Naples centuries ago, bringing along their entire courts," she says.

She further distinguishes her pearl jewellery from that of others in terms of her respect for the raw material. Ms. Gafter selects each pearl she uses according to lustre and beauty of skin. "Individual pearls call out to be used in a certain way, alone or along with other pearls," she says. "The raw material has to be of quality, it has to be well interpreted, and featured in the best possible way within the design. The piece has to be technically executed to suit its purpose, which is to flatter."

While she adds that a piece of fine jewellery should be not only beautiful to the eye but also "wearable to the best effect", she says that the piece in addition has to "land in the hands of the right woman, who will know when and how to wear it."

Ms. Gafter's strict attention to quality has also acquired for Ellagem a select clientele of prominent people in Thailand and Brunei. She does not discount the possibility of expanding the company's share of the Asian market some day. With the help of daughter Talila, a Harvard graduate who manages the business, Ellagem could very well carve a niche among Asia's elite. "We would love to expand the Asian market, as we find Asian women are refined to the extreme in the way they combine internal beauty with outward sophistication of appearance," Ms. Gafter says.