Watch & Jewelry – December 2009

OUTSTANDING OVATION

Ella Gafter for Ellagem

By Roberta Naas

For more than 30 years, Ella Gafter has been creating classically elegant jewelry designs that regularly surprise and delight the savvy customer. Gafter first formed her small family firm, Ellagem, in the heart of Naples, Italy Ñ her home country. She began working with the finest gemstones, exquisitely cut, and setting them in the most lavish designs. It was her goal to create works of art that women with taste could wear with distinction.

Her passion for pearls, rubies, and emeralds, along with her keen eye for balance and harmony, came through in all she created and she quickly became known for her haute joaillerie. As her company took shape, she opened a New York office, and her daughter Talila joined the company, running the business side of it. Together, the two operate a superbly run tight ship Ñ one most retailers are happy to board.

For her creations, Gafter seeks stones with the perfect hue for what she sees in her mind's eye. She doesn't rest when a piece looks good; it must look perfect.

Indeed, time after time, Gafter turns out magnificent masterpieces of royal stature. Typically, Gafter looks to nature for her inspiration, creating stunning floral arrangements and fauna that are unparalleled in their craftsmanship and beauty. Many of her designs are created using an ancient setting that Gafter has redeveloped and perfected: the en-tremblant setting, wherein gemstones are placed in such a way that they sway or tremble with the wearer's every move. This setting is one of the most difficult to achieve and is time-consuming work. It is also one of the most rewarding settings, as it enables Gafter to feature a bird's tail feathers, for instance, that move, or flower petals that sway in the wind, or butterflies whose spots seem to dance as one walks.

Gafter is a master at selecting the richest rubies emeralds and sapphires and mixing them perfectly in her designs to offer unique distinction. In addition to her one-of-a-kind pieces, Gafter creates collections that have become signature lines. Among them is the much-coveted Ellagem Zodiac ring series, which includes diamond rings representing each month in the zodiac in elegant form. These rings average about $20,000 retail. Her highjewelry collections continue to focus on large pearls and on rubies and precious gems Ñ recognizing that the clientele she works with still requires special jewelry even in a soft economy. One of the newest ruby bracelets is set with 45 carats of rubies and retails for $120,000. "The novelty is in the continuity," says Talila Gafter. "We do not follow the casual trends. As a family-owned business we have the freedom to do as we want, and Ella wants to create beauty to interpret the gems in the ways that give the greatest pleasure."

Gafter spends her time traveling between her newly built retreat in Umbria (not far from Rome), the workshops in Italy and the company's headquarters in New York. Additionally, she regularly scours Australia and the Far East for the finest South Sea and Tahitian pearls, and travels globally to secure the most breathtaking gems. Her collections can be found in the finest independent jewelry stores and in specialty stores such as Sak's Fifth Avenue, where most pieces have an average retail of between $15,000 and $25,000.



Tahitian pearl necklace with orange sapphire pendant, and Tahitian and golden pearl drop.